Wednesday, December 12, 2007

WEDNESDAY SWELL 12/05/07 (Part II)

.
Back down in Ventura for the afternoon session— a more stress free crowd and open minds.
.
.
JBrother, maker of films "Adrift" and "Longer", steppin' stones.
.

.
Dan Malloy opted for a first session on his Alaia shaped by Tom Wegener— finless, solid wood, roughly one inch thick.
.
.
Dan, Alaia in the pocket (w/ enlargements).
.
.
Post Alaia session stoke.
.
.
Jenkins, fiberglass drum maker and top of the point barrel seeker.
.
.
Tom Curren, on the scene. Sorry, no other shots of the man. The cap was attached to his wetsuit zipper string. He'd knock it off his head after dropping in and let it dangle behind him as he rode down the line.
.
.
Dan, second session thrusting.
.
.
Two unidentified.
.

.
.
JBrother, on his way...
.
.
...to performing simple arithmetic: 3 pelicans + 1 JBrother = 4 pelicans.
.
.
Homeward bound...
.

.
.

8 comments:

warm jet said...

Frickin awesome post.
Best coverage of the swell I've seen.
The point just did'nt look that good when i was there.

nm said...

Dig the pelican shots...

I love it when they cruise the lineup.

R.T. said...

thanks jet! my session there was definitely a stoker! lots of good energy goin' on there.

R.T. said...

nm, it's funny how pelicans at times can be such a clumsy lookin' bird, but i can't think of any other non-fish animal that trims a wave more gracefully.

Mick said...

I'm with Jet. Great post. Epic swell. Mr Malloyis riding pretty damn tight on the alaia... but I did see Sage Joske ride the foam ball on one (and made it) on King Island.

R.T. said...

right on, thanks mick! really lookin' forward to seeing musica surfica! will sage's foam ball make be in it?

seamouse said...

neato posto!
I truly believe that deemalloy could ride a lollipop stick if asked to.

R.T. said...

...and or a candy cane. ha!