Thursday, August 7, 2008

DON'T DOG THE 'DINES

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Most people back off when you offer them a hit from a can of Sardines. But along with some crackers/chips and a coldie they make for an epic tailgate grind between Summer sessions.
And they pack for travel anywhere easy.
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Plus, being really low on the food chain makes for much lower mercury content than tuna, etc. And they're a great source of Omega-3 fats.
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But don't just take my word for it:
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But seriously... first time, try skinned & boneless (as pictured at top). In any case, packed in olive oil is a good way to go.
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Monday, August 4, 2008

SANDALS & CYLINDERS

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Sunset cruise on P.C.H. and BLASTING this from their onboard stereo:
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FIN & FINS

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Waves small. Good for a few lines then a quick swim.
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Good to feel the whole body coursing through water. Always beats taking the time to shower at home.
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Saturday, August 2, 2008

Thursday, July 31, 2008

COSMIC BLACK & WHITE

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Observations through the Hubble and Spitzer Space Telescopes recently discovered an inhabited mirror planet of Earth in the Pinwheel Galaxy, also known as Messier 101.
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All the cops are super groovy there, no sirens, no tude, no tickets...
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"Is there a problem officer?"
"No problem at all... just zebra stripe chillin', buddy. Have a good one."
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space photos
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Wednesday, July 30, 2008

FUNCH BREAK

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Fun lunch time corners.
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Not the biggest spot today, but can't complain when you're trunking it on a quick midday break from work with just a few others.
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FIRST QUAKE ETIQUETTE

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Pre-Work A.M. Session: The 40-something dude shoulder-hopped without the slightest glance to his inside even after repeated hoots. After the wave, 40-something dude with furrowed brow says, "You have a problem with me?!" It all made perfect sense when later in the session he could be heard telling someone, "Yesterday was my first earthquake."
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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

VALENCE LEVELS

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Something in the air today, a certain quality of light, midday painted clouds...
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...and pumping South lines in the water... buzzing.
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Sunday, July 20, 2008

WEEKEND BATTLE AXE

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Though it will leave you feelin' giddy, make no mistake...
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...the White Pony is not child's play.
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Saturday, July 19, 2008

SHORT x THICK x WIDE x FAST x LOOSE

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Like Casper, the White Pony is a Richard Kenvin design idea inspired by Bob Simmons. I got a chance to ride the first White Pony at AB3 last March and soon after put an order in with Kenvin/Swift Movement. White Pony #2, shown here, was shaped by Joe Bauguess.
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Really fast, lots of glide, and responsive.
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White Pony #2: 4'11". Though slightly thinner foam volume and shorter fin base, it's for the most part a replicate of Kenvin's original.
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Monday, July 7, 2008

GRIT TURN

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Steve H./Warm Jet...
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Grit turn.
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Recent swell, 7'2" Liddle, Photo: Dave Ogle
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Wednesday, June 25, 2008

SOMETIMES A MOTH SHINES AS BRIGHTLY AS A BUTTERFLY

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Often overshadowed by the consistent beauty of the Abalone, every once in a while the California Muscle proves its potential is a force to be reckoned with.
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Tuesday, June 24, 2008

IN SPITE OF AN UGLY WIND

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Eddy reared its angry fist this morning.
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But a few decent ones snuck in for those that weren't scared.
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A good day to try new things and have fun eating shit every other wave or so. Fun.
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Monday, June 23, 2008

ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT

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Though thoughtless littering will always unnerve me... the next time I get bent into a scrouge mood over things as relatively minor as Summer crowds, Blackball, etc., I'll do my best to remind myself of Wayne's unfettered stoke this morning.
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Sunday, June 22, 2008

SUMMERTIME BLUES

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The beach is for everyone...
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...But some things will always be hard to swallow:
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1) Mandatory Blackball for the inside shallows to be played in while sets go unridden on the outside.
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2) Returning next dawn to a parking lot and beach of trash.
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3) Abandoned chicken and styrofoam.
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Thursday, June 19, 2008

BLIND FAITH

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The two of these three that decided to paddle into the unknown reaped the rewards this morning.
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Tuesday, June 17, 2008

HOW MANY LAZY ASSES DOES IT TAKE TO SCREW IN A LIGHT BULB?

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AND THEN IT GOT WINDY

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Early morning photo from last week. Check it... glassy. Suit up... windy.
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Sunday, June 8, 2008

GOOFIN' OFF

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A little edit I was able to throw together from unused footage from the surf flick Stoney Baloney (made by Richard Woolcott & Troy Eckert in 1995). Referred to as Spell of the Frog Charmer, the edit was used as an extra feature when Stoney Baloney was released on DVD.

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