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Waves small. Good for a few lines then a quick swim.
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Good to feel the whole body coursing through water. Always beats taking the time to shower at home.
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Fun lunch time corners.
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Not the biggest spot today, but can't complain when you're trunking it on a quick midday break from work with just a few others.
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Pre-Work A.M. Session: The 40-something dude shoulder-hopped without the slightest glance to his inside even after repeated hoots. After the wave, 40-something dude with furrowed brow says, "You have a problem with me?!" It all made perfect sense when later in the session he could be heard telling someone, "Yesterday was my first earthquake."
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Though it will leave you feelin' giddy, make no mistake...
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...the White Pony is not child's play.
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Steve H./Warm Jet...
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Grit turn.
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Recent swell, 7'2" Liddle, Photo: Dave Ogle
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Eddy reared its angry fist this morning.
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But a few decent ones snuck in for those that weren't scared.
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A good day to try new things and have fun eating shit every other wave or so. Fun.
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The two of these three that decided to paddle into the unknown reaped the rewards this morning.
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Early morning photo from last week. Check it... glassy. Suit up... windy.
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A little edit I was able to throw together from unused footage from the surf flick Stoney Baloney (made by Richard Woolcott & Troy Eckert in 1995). Referred to as Spell of the Frog Charmer, the edit was used as an extra feature when Stoney Baloney was released on DVD.
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