Thursday, January 15, 2009


How many times have I ended up the only one out in the dusk lineup because I told myself, "Just one more," and paddled back out after a perfectly good wave to end on... And how many of those times have I paddled back out just in time for a lull in the sets... And how many of those lulls have I spent sitting alone with mind starting to wander as I watch the sky darken behind the black land mass of Palos Verdes... And how many of those times have I asked myself, "What if P.V. was a giant wave lumbering towards me?"
Usually, the next thing I ask myself is, "Would I go right or left? But, before I can answer the absurdity of that proposition, I always move on to... "Forget that... What would I do to survive?" The immediate fight or flight scenarios imagined are: "Scratch for the shoulder?" Or, "Paddle to the beach and run for higher ground?" No matter the decision, a of wave of that size and proximity would outrun and prove either attempt futile. Still, you picture yourself surviving, somehow...


Anonymous said...

Just start surfing a S.U.P. Board. You can out-paddle anything. You can surf to the moon. Freaking Carbon Fiber Oar type thing... So progressive. Just don't yardsale it, and you'd be fine.

On second thought, the wave might pitch on the piers and births... So you'd be outrunning 200ft of whitewater, prolly better luck trying to breathe in the froth like a fishuman.

Happy new year RT! See you in March me thinks.. -elias

Danimal said...

Just think to yourself "Hey bud! Let's party!" and go for it. If your gonna get aced either way, at least go down shredding.

R.T. said...

Happy New Year, Elias! lookin' forward to March.

Danimal, i'll have to settle for goin' down duck diving, since it's gonna break way out. I like your sentiment though... "if you're gonna die, die with your booties on!" —wait a minute... i cant stand wearing booties,

"Goin home, late last night
Suddenly I got a fright
Yeah I looked through the window and surprised what I saw
Fairy booties were dancing with a dwarf,

All right now!

Fairies wear booties and you gotta believe me
Yeah I saw it, I saw it, I tell you no lies
Yeah fairies wear booties and you gotta believe me
I saw it, I saw it with my own two eyes,

Well all right now!

So I went to the doctor
See what he could give me
He said son, son, you've gone too far.
cause smokin and trippin is all that you do."