Monday, September 15, 2008


Only had time for a quick one-piss-in-the-suit session on the way to work— suit up in a frenzy, run mach-speed across the sand, paddle hard, take a leak, luck into a fair share of waves in just minutes, then rush out.
Exiting the water I witnessed a group of people helping a "disabled" man put every thing he had into each slow, short, fatigued step down the sand bank toward the surf.
A few tears made it past my effort to hold them back, but no one could see them. They were disguised by my surf wet face.

Even with all the help exiting the surf, his legs gave out a few times landing him in the water, but he kept at it.


Patch said...

A touching sight, It's amazing what pull that water has. Live life, my friend.

pushingtide said...

wow. i would hope that all of our friends do that to us if we are in that position in life.

Dr.Robert said...

thanks..I needed that.

I've been out of the water..and not being able to walk, for about 3plus months now..due to acute achilles tendonitis.

Tethered to a chair..foot in cast..and only just recently, with the arrival of that last south swell,(and pictures from you'all in blog land) starting to feel real fuckin' sorry for myself.

I know all that will change for me rapidly, but no such assurance for the friend you portrayed in your essay.

When we need it, and when we listen, the Universe will slap us a good one on the side of the head and say.."wake up".

Privleged we are to have these great opportunities..

"live life,my friend".

R.T. said...

Patch & Pushing— i hear ya both on that.

dang Dr!

that sucks! but glad this post helped you to re-center at just the point that you needed it. i know it isn't easy...

i had surgery on some obliterated cartilage in my hip a few years ago that kept me out of the water for 3+ months. seems long as fuck, but all of a sudden you find yourself wet and laughing in the lineup again.

yes, privileged we are!

may time and healing fly quickly on your side.