or, the last one could be titled.." this is your brain on a hull trying to go backside at an average quality beachbreak.."nice stuff!
Hey RT. I have been riding a hull a bunch lately...I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised at how well the thing works...90% of the time. When it's reeling, the thing is rad. Although, there have been some nuggets I have blown because sometimes the hull does, what the hull wants. Not what I want.I thought the thing was gonna suck in beachbreak and I was definitely prepared for the worst. I didn't understand why people are riding them in beachies. Then I flew through a few sections. Full crouch in the pocket trim machine...I understand now.Pretty sweet. Definitely not a daily driver for me personally, but I can definitely understand the allure now.Whew. Long winded response.
Long winded, and it ain't a rant! dang, the hull experience is changing you already! now your job is to get Douche grinning ear to ear on one.but seriously,i'm stoked you got a taste for the hull feeling. they can take some time to get the hang of, but once you do the rewards are rich.i know you say you've been riding a Gato version, you might want to try one made by someone with decades experience making them, you can borrow my 6'8" Liddle if you want. email me if you want to set that up, email@example.com, or just hit me up whenever we cross paths.
Yeah RT... I like how your brain works... classic form. Good Style. Hope all is well.
Why not ride a board that works backside and frontside, modern/clean outline, three, four fins which is a culmination of all eras of surfing? This way you can fly in the pocket, turn on a dime and not worry about any quirkiness. Also, you get the same feeling and see your surfing improve which is a great feeling as well. If hulls were all that, why aren't more people riding them daily in BIG SURF or small surf?Sometimes the past is best left in the past......
yo anon..I hear ya..but,as someone once said.."if you don't know your history..you can't know where you're coming from.."I advocate riding any and all surf vehicles..depending on circumstance.. frame of mood..time and space..and basically..the freedom of surfing is ..to just explore and have fun while your at it.you never know what you'll find..or discover.. unless you give it a go.quirkiness keeps me interested..and I will allow..I'm pushing 50 years of surfing.the last thing I care about is how many people are riding what..I bet you agree.
like the Dr. said...It's not a matter of past, present or future. it's more about wave conditions, day to day moods and personal taste.most prefer white meat, some prefer dark, while others have a taste for the whole damn bird and use the bones for toothpicks after devouring it. still for some, even that is not enough and they embark on a journey to broaden their palates by eating things such as brains:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZk7EK8aD44bon appétit!
yo J! thanks. good to hear you're around. talk soon.
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