Monday, December 26, 2011

YES

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"i have a heart and i have bones and muscle and skin and eyes and teeth. i have emotions. sometimes i act according to emotions. sometimes i think and make a conscious decision. i usually do that. in fact i usually think too much. sorta neurotic. i make mistakes, and i deal with them. i have fears and i have anxiety and i have insecurities and i have vices which i often give in to. social situations enhance all of these qualities. i could probably use some discipline, and lots of things bum me out, but generally i'm happy, and i enjoy making other people happy. sometimes all it takes is a smile. sometimes it takes a lot more than that. i try to be honest. especially with myself. i know that i'm fortunate. i'm sitting here and i have a pulse and i can breath and i hear birds outside and the buzz of the freeway and the suns about to set and it's a friday. that's fortune. i also know that i'm fortunate in many other ways. three brands support me and enable me to surf every day and travel and eat and have a house to live in. in return i represent their company in a positive way. i feel like i do a decent job. but that's obviously up for debate. surfing is my passion in life. i always think about how lucky we are that there's even an ocean, and its not too hot or too turbulent and it's not made of acid that burns our skin off. and how lucky is it that the land tapers into the ocean in just the right way so that when lumps of energy approach from a thousand miles away they gently rise up and crash at just the perfect speed so that we can wave our little arms and match their speed and hang at the crest weightless for just a second before sliding down the face. free to ride it in any way you please. and there's not just one of them. there's tons of them. they keep coming. all different sizes shapes and speeds. everyday they're different. endless joy."
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excerpt from dane's declaration of independence
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

COMING OF AGELESS • howling

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(for best quality, press play and toggle from 360p to 720p).
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Friday, November 4, 2011

BEACH, OCEAN & GENERATIONS

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One of the impressive things about Johnny Abegg is his ongoing desire to tap numerous points in the arch of being human. Whether it's humorous ("_____"), introspective (Two Weeks
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Kobe and the Sea : Ben Shewry from Johnny Abegg Films on Vimeo.


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Always great to see a film that can elicit all the love for the beach and ocean that surfing brings without featuring any surfing in it... A deeper, more fundamental role that the beach plays in the lives of generations.
Thanks Johnny.
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Friday, October 14, 2011

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

SHELLEPHANTITIS

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Shellephantitis (Proper medical term: Shellephantiasis) is a serious disease. If not treated in a timely manner, it may lead to severe complications ending in a surgery. In most cases, the abnormal symptoms caused by the condition also make the patient face social boycott leading to much psychological turmoil. If you know a person with early symptoms of Shellephantitis, get immediate medical attention.
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Monday, August 22, 2011

TEMPORAL COLLECTIONS... (film update #016)

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Temporal Collections...
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In the General Vicinity of...
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June 21st, Burch was sanding the quiver he shaped and glassed for the Indian Ocean trip I'd be meeting him and Lucas Dirkse on. Weird boards don't look weird anymore, but one did look a little funny. Maybe it wasn't weird enough: The 7'2" yellow one. Sanding done and dust just blown off, Burch asked me what I thought of it. I laughed and referred to it as the Banana Chaser. He laughed too and said he might leave it home. Our attention then turned to another of the fresh sanded boards that pleased our eyes most.
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I phoned Burch the day before their June 24th flight. He test sessioned the quiver in small surf at his local. The eye pleaser was a no go. The Banana showed promise. It was in the board bag.
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A few days after my July 11th arrival, Burch decided to get a proper feel for the 7'2" before taking it into larger swell. It was unreal. A skateboard under his feet— Nothing like you'd expect from a 7'+ board.
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After only a handful of waves the session ended when the Banana buckled. We wanted to fix it to keep filming on it... But things don't always go as planned at the jungle's edge.
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Frame grabs by RT from the forthcoming film.
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Monday, June 27, 2011

Friday, June 24, 2011

TEMPORAL COLLECTIONS... (film update #015)

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Temporal Collections...
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In the General Vicinity of...
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Ryan Burch
Finishing board for June/July in the Jungle.
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Frame grabs by RT from the forthcoming film.
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Sunday, June 19, 2011

HER FIRST SEA STAR

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California
2006
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Tuesday, June 14, 2011