VALENCE LEVELS

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Something in the air today, a certain quality of light, midday painted clouds...
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...and pumping South lines in the water... buzzing.
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WEEKEND BATTLE AXE

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Though it will leave you feelin' giddy, make no mistake...
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...the White Pony is not child's play.
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SHORT x THICK x WIDE x FAST x LOOSE

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Like Casper, the White Pony is a Richard Kenvin design idea inspired by Bob Simmons. I got a chance to ride the first White Pony at AB3 last March and soon after put an order in with Kenvin/Swift Movement. White Pony #2, shown here, was shaped by Joe Bauguess.
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Really fast, lots of glide, and responsive.
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White Pony #2: 4'11". Though slightly thinner foam volume and shorter fin base, it's for the most part a replicate of Kenvin's original.
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GRIT TURN

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Steve H./Warm Jet...
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Grit turn.
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Recent swell, 7'2" Liddle, Photo: Dave Ogle
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KNIFE WAY TO START THE DAY

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SOMETIMES A MOTH SHINES AS BRIGHTLY AS A BUTTERFLY

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Often overshadowed by the consistent beauty of the Abalone, every once in a while the California Muscle proves its potential is a force to be reckoned with.
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IN SPITE OF AN UGLY WIND

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Eddy reared its angry fist this morning.
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But a few decent ones snuck in for those that weren't scared.
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A good day to try new things and have fun eating shit every other wave or so. Fun.
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ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT

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Though thoughtless littering will always unnerve me... the next time I get bent into a scrouge mood over things as relatively minor as Summer crowds, Blackball, etc., I'll do my best to remind myself of Wayne's unfettered stoke this morning.
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SUMMERTIME BLUES

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The beach is for everyone...
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...But some things will always be hard to swallow:
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1) Mandatory Blackball for the inside shallows to be played in while sets go unridden on the outside.
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2) Returning next dawn to a parking lot and beach of trash.
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3) Abandoned chicken and styrofoam.

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BLIND FAITH

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The two of these three that decided to paddle into the unknown reaped the rewards this morning.
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HOW MANY LAZY ASSES DOES IT TAKE TO SCREW IN A LIGHT BULB?

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AND THEN IT GOT WINDY

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Early morning photo from last week. Check it... glassy. Suit up... windy.
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GOOFIN' OFF

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A little edit I was able to throw together from unused footage from the surf flick Stoney Baloney (made by Richard Woolcott & Troy Eckert in 1995). Referred to as Spell of the Frog Charmer, the edit was used as an extra feature when Stoney Baloney was released on DVD.
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GURU GURU "ELECTRIC JUNK" 1971

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RAD SHIT!!!

Ran across this animation over at Wine and Woodsmoke, thanks Daniel. Some of the best shit ever!!!
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MORE FOR ORGANS & WHALES

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A few Ozzie Wright clips of character from Save the Big Fat Whales:
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Look Back Slow-mo:
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Grab turn slow-mo:
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ON RAIL FOR ORGANS & WHALES

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Epic water-shot of Rasta on rail, from the surf vid, Save the Big Fat Whales.
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Regular speed w/ slow-mo turn as seen in the vid:
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And w/ extra slow-mo examination of turn:
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All proceeds from Save the Big Fat Whales (trailer) go to:
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• Help fund a heart transplant for surf filmmaker, Peter Crumpton (Organ donor info available at www.organdonor.gov for USA & www.australiansdonate.org.au for OZ).
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• Help fund Sea Shepherd's (www.seashepherd.org) & Rasta's (www.surfersforcetaceans.com) mission to stop whale and dolphin slaughter.
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PINK FLOYD: GRANTCHESTER MEADOWS

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Lazy Monday.

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PUNJI STICK

My local spot lived up to its heyday name of Tin Can Beach yesterday.


The next time you're running and jumping around the beach with your kid, beware of creased aluminum cans buried just inches under the sand. Sucks that having a good time barefoot on the beach is such a gamble.

In my time, I've also been hit by a hypo-needle in the sand... bummer to leave the beach needing an HIV test. At least this time 'round I don't have to think about that— just a hand full of days out of the water.

Just heard a story about a friend of a friend that had to get his big toe reattached after stepping on a broken shell while running down the beach for a paddle out. A good story to temper my irritation with a forced surf break caused by what is really just a minor cut.
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CLEAN SLATE

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Mid morning fresh air.
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DUSK PATROL

Another rain that delivered a narrow window of clean sundown glass today.

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BRUCE IRONS CHOOSES TO LEAVE THE WCT

"I'm going back to being a freesurfer...


...It’s what I was meant to do."

Link to interview by Evan Slater
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HAPPY HOUR

Localized thunder, lightning, and a short downpour of rain lead into a nice break in the wind for about an hour Thursday evening.

click for enlargement

Fun, well shaped, yet fat waves weren't spectacular. But combined with the weather made for something special.
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LATE SEASON TREAT

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A quick hop over to the mid Pacific on Wednesday to catch some late season, fun sized, North swell that built through the day on Thursday.

As quickly as it rose on Thursday, it decreased through the day on Friday. But with favorable winds and the fact that it's North swell in May, and still plenty surfable as Friday's pics show below, there was no reason to complain.
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The ever positive Alex Gray, giving things a look.
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This trip has been a reminder that salt water can actually taste nearly sweet enough to drink... all depending where you are. Rather than spitting it out, as I'm so used to in my usual So. Cal haunts, it's swished in the mouth and the flavor savored while waiting for the next set.
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