FUNCH BREAK

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Fun lunch time corners.
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Not the biggest spot today, but can't complain when you're trunking it on a quick midday break from work with just a few others.
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VALENCE LEVELS

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Something in the air today, a certain quality of light, midday painted clouds...
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...and pumping South lines in the water... buzzing.
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BLIND FAITH

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The two of these three that decided to paddle into the unknown reaped the rewards this morning.
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AND THEN IT GOT WINDY

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Early morning photo from last week. Check it... glassy. Suit up... windy.
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CLEAN SLATE

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Mid morning fresh air.
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DUSK PATROL

Another rain that delivered a narrow window of clean sundown glass today.

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RECLAIMED REDWOOD

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Inspired, most notably, by Tom Wegener's knack for reminding us all of surfing's roots, Copper Dove has been waiting a while now for a chance to shape an Alaia for himself. Some time ago he acquired just enough reclaimed redwood to shape one in the range of 6'2" tall x 15" wide x 1/2" thick. He finally found the window to shape it last Friday, showed up at the beach to ride it first thing Saturday morning, and has been giving it a go everyday since.
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Session 1, Saturday, April 5th: Maiden trimming voyage.
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Session 2, Sunday, April 6th: Flushed.
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Session 3, Monday, April 7th: Back in the saddle.
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Session 1 & 3 photos by Christina Beck, Session 2 photos by Charlie Grahamson.
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BACK IN THE WATER

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Scotty Stopnik, today, zippin' up the suit for a session to rehab both his ankles that are still stiff as hell after getting broken up in a recent, bad, motorcycle crash in street traffic that's had him out of the water for months.
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Glad to see you alive and wet, Scotty.
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LOG IN SOME NOVELTY TIME

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Yesterday, Jeff "Copper Dove" Beck loggin' some little ones that were running along an inner jetty sand bank during a favorable tide.
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Pretty small but lucking into the novelty of it made for the kind of carefree fun that makes one feel like a kid again.
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CHRISTENED BY WIND

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Escaped Orange County to go pick up this custom Malcolm shaped Campbell Brothers 5-fin Bumblebee I ordered a few months ago. The volume is more foiled out then the standard Bumblebee, along with a 9" tail block as opposed to the usual 10". Malcolm nicknamed it the "Wafer Bee", Warm Jet is calling it the "Super Bee", and I've started calling it the "Mint Chip" even though it's not really too chippy.
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5'11" • 14 1/4" • 20 5/8" • 15 1/2" • 2 1/4"
Glassed opaque with 3-step 4oz. deck, single 4oz. bottom, and 101's bamboo side runners.
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On the way back home I stopped to paddle it into some blown-out, head high, brown waters. Though the above photos favor the lefts, I actually only got two. On the first, the M.Chip delivered the Bonzer overdrive. By the time I got my second, the wind was blowing too hard as a head-wind into the lefts... so hard in fact that if a board was allowed to lay flat on the water it was immediately scooped up by the wind and sent spiraling off into the air. So it became a session focussed on riding tail-wind rights on my backhand. It felt really good on my backhand— transitioned really smoothly from bottom turn to top, and seemed to just want to solidly follow whatever direction I pointed my leading shoulder. Can't wait to get it into something round.
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Thanks Jet for letting me session your 5-fin Bee which prompted me to order the M.Chip, and Thank You especially to Malcolm!
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CLEARING THE WEBS

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With all the things that can weigh on one's mind, it was nice to paddle out on a Valentine's lunch break and only have to think one thing, "left or right?"
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As can be seen, I tend to favor the left.
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SLINGSHOT INTO THE FUTURE

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Solo session 'til it was hard to see this evening... have now experienced the legendary "5th gear"— could really feel it kick in when i needed something extra to get around a section. Shit, maybe that was only 4th! Whatever the case, it was something I haven't felt before and I'm sure this design has a lot more to show me in the future.
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Thanks to Warm Jet for putting "Red 5", his Campbell Bros. Bumble Bee, under my feet.
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WEDNESDAY SWELL 12/05/07 (Part II)

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Back down in Ventura for the afternoon session— a more stress free crowd and open minds.
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JBrother, maker of films "Adrift" and "Longer", steppin' stones.
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Dan Malloy opted for a first session on his Alaia shaped by Tom Wegener— finless, solid wood, roughly one inch thick.
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Dan, Alaia in the pocket (w/ enlargements).
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Post Alaia session stoke.
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Jenkins, fiberglass drum maker and top of the point barrel seeker.
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Tom Curren, on the scene. Sorry, no other shots of the man. The cap was attached to his wetsuit zipper string. He'd knock it off his head after dropping in and let it dangle behind him as he rode down the line.
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Dan, second session thrusting.
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Two unidentified.
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JBrother, on his way...
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...to performing simple arithmetic: 3 pelicans + 1 JBrother = 4 pelicans.
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Homeward bound...
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